Nestled in the heart of the Copper Valley amidst whisperings of haunting and patches of copper ore lies perhaps one of the best indications of “old town Alaska” - that of McCarthy and Kennicott in St. Elias National Park and Preserve.  Accessible via air transportation and unimproved gravel road, vis a vie the Edgerton Highway, I recently found myself journeying to the heart of this town to experience the times of yesteryears.They say that taking this journey is an adventure in and of itself and I would be apt to agree with them.  In fact this journey is not for the ill at heart. 

Situated some 7+ hours from Anchorage, the road from Chitina to McCarthy is perhaps one of Alaska’s most perilous hazards to the standard automobile.  The 60 mile road is known for spectacular views and jaw clenching ruts.  Additionally, the road is built over an old railroad bed and as a result it is not uncommon for old rail spikes to suface resulting in a flat tire.  Dire warnings are often issued to bring a full size spare tire if you plan on taking this trip and in fact some automobile rental car companies here prohibit their vehicles from being driven on the road. 

Yet over the past few years the State of Alaska has made a significant effort to improve the road.  And on so many levels I would say they have succeeded.  We were able to travel a steady 20-30 miles per hour making the journey from Chitina in just under 3 hours.  Mile 30-36 of the road is a constant washboard, so caution is obviously advised there.

St. Elias National Park and Preserve is a gem of a national park.  It dwarves Alaska’s most well known park (Denali National Park) in size and sees far fewer visitors to the area given its remote location.  To some it’s known as the “mountain kingdom of North America” and is home to some of the best ice climbing in the world amidst the towering cragues of Root and Kennicott glaciers.  There is quite simply no limit to the backcountry exploration opportunities that are offered here.Bright and early on a Friday morning my travel companion and I set off to explore the heart of St. Elias.  Being relatively new to Alaska my friend C had obviously never made her way to Kennicott to truly experience it.  And of course being me, I was up for that challenge.  Plus it had been several years since I was last there.  The memories of the road were enough to shy me away from experiencing it further.  Our plans were quite simple.  We would be camping in the area at the Glacier View Campground and experience McCarthy and Kennicott on foot.  Though another wonderful way to explore is on mountain bike.  The option I will be doing next time.

With brilliant blue skies and warm weather, we began our long seven hour drive and found ourselves stopping for lunch at one of my personal favorite places - that of Sheep Mountain Lodge which is owned and run by Iditarod musher Zack Steer.  As the dogs howled and chuffed at us, we entered the small quaint restaurant and spent the time indulging in a wonderful lunch and looking out the window at the grand mountainous views.  If you are ever in the vicinity of the Glenn Highway and the Matanuska Glacier, Sheep Mountain Lodge is always a great place to stop.  The hospitality and food are inviting and never disappoints.

After heading up the road we found ourselves in Glennallen making very good time.  After gassing up we continued on to the Richardson Highway until we reached the pull off of the Edgerton Highway.  By late afternoon we found ourselves pulling into the area and then checking in and setting up camp at the campground before walking up to the pedestrian footbridge to explore McCarthy for the evening.

McCarthy is accessible via a pedestrian footbridge and is approximately 1.5 miles from our chosen camping spot.  There is a saying that the unofficial town slogan for McCarthy is that it is “where the town ends and the wilderness begins.”  Home to a menial population of 42 people of which probably fewer than half winter over, once one enters McCarthy you literally feel like you were swept back to the time.  The town offers a variety of lodging opportunities from the backpackers hotels to the more upscale Ma Johnson’s. Restaurant selections are obviously few and far between and that night we found ourselves dining at the Golden Palace Saloon.  Despite the towns limited offerings of dining choices, I must say that during the journey the meals we indulged in were nothing short of wonderful.  As was the service.  The locals are fun to talk to and of course if one has a hankering for some indulgence in loving from the area’s local dog population, you won’t be disappointed.  The reputation of the amount of dogs that roam the town are almost a well known as the town itself!

As we began to walk back to the campground we were met with a beautiful sunset and alpenglow dancing off the distant peaks of the surrounding mountains.  With a night of sleep ahead of us, our first day in McCarthy came to a wonderful end.  Though I personally must admit that as the hour of 1:30 a.m. approached and I found myself stepping out of the tent to answer the call of nature, I found my mouth dropping open in awe as I looked up at the stars that aligned overhead.  The Perseid Meteor Shower was beginning that night and from the steps of the tent I was able to watch the most amazing show.  However eventually sleep overtook me and we had an earning morning ahead of us with plans to spend the entire day up at Kennicott, thus I retired for the night.

Saturday morning I awoke to find the area had taken on the reminder of the coming winter - with that of a hard freeze.  Whereas leaves in South-central Alaska are just beginning to remind us that fall is on its way, McCarthy is well into its descent of fall with leaves already changing and in some cases dropping to the valley floor to act as its carpet of foliage.  We bundled up and began our journey once more into McCarthy where we would our way up to Kennicott Mine.

Kennicott Mine was acquired by the National Park Service in 1998 and they have since spent that time attempting to restore the area.  Considered to be the best remaining example of early 20th century copper mining, Kennicott offers sweeping views and impressive structures that hug the mountainside above the valley.  It’s a relic of a town that offers a look into the true history of Alaska.  And indeed as we spend the hours exploring and photographing the town, I could literally feel like I had stepped back into the early 1900s to the era of boom and bust that Alaska is well known for.

As the morning hours waned into the afternoon and C was literally swept up in her berry obsession and began to pick berries to her hearts content, I found myself off and wandering among the ruins and headed up to Silk Stocking Road to indulge in a bit of hiking and taking in the sweeping views of the valley and the town itself.  We eventually began the long walk back to McCarty and the campside and by that time the sun was beating down on us as it neared 80 degrees. 

By that time my feet were also beginning to cry out in protest since I had obviously chosen to bring the wrong hiking boots.  As we neared camp I found myself hobbling as a result.  After taking a bit of time to relax once we returned, I later found myself suggesting we do yet more walking and return to McCarthy for our last dinner there.  Masochist anyone? 

As our second day drew to an end and we made the eventual journey home the next morning, I was left with wonderful memories and a truly enriched experience.  With the road being improved to the extent that it has, there is no doubt I will once again return to McCarthy and Kennicott.  After all, the Root Glacier cries out for more adventure and I have some ghosts to haunt.

Kennicott and McCarthy offers a memorable experience unlike no other.