Brown Bear Boar
Southcentral Alaska
Obviously someone hasn’t told this gentleman that it is winter and he should therefore be hibernating. Instead we found him trundling through snow in search of food before he ambled (i.e. waddled) on his way. His coat full and stomach hanging. That’s right folks - Santa Claus is not the jolly and fat one these days.
It’s been awhile in coming but I have updated the gallery section of the website to include up to the date most recent photos as well as information on ordering prints. Next step to accomplish - the business website.
But alas thus far it’s been a productive weekend.
When temperatures make their leisurely way down to single or even negative digits it’s a sure sign that most Alaskan bloggers will in fact make an entry or two focusing on it. Maybe not so much because it’s an uncommon occurrence but the fact that we have finally entered what can be termed as a “normal” winter with December temperatures plummeting to below zero for a day or two and sometimes even a few weeks before beginning to creep back up.
When the thermometer read -14 degrees in Anchorage yesterday at my house I just put on an extra layer or two and began my day as I would any other. I do admit after having long cold snaps last winter the last few days have become quintessentially easy for me to adapt to. Shocking given that I tend to get cold easily. But put on the glove liners under my regular North Face gloves, the sock liners under my wool socks and a polar fleece shell under my jacket and it’s a good way to begin the day.
Some may be asking what exactly it takes clothing wise to be able to function in such a cold climate. Especially if one is engaging in outdoor activities or if your hobbies may be photography where being flexible and adapting to the environment is a definite prerequisite.
So how does one survive in an arctic environment?
1. Quite simply as the adage goes, “cotton kills”. It’s a material that absorbs and retains water and thus doesn’t wick away moisture. Because of this will leave you feeling cold and wet when you perspire or in some cases “glow”. Synthetic materials and fleece are the way to go. There are many synthetic materials that are create to wick away material from the body when you perspire.
2. Layer, layer, layer! Think logically here. Obvious when one gets cold they can put on multiple layers to get warm. Lets face it - as one’s body heats and adapts to the temperatures and you need to cool down, its easier to take a layer off than be so overheated in one single layer that you are stuck in that layer unless you want to wander around in your birthday suit. From socks which you can buy with liners to gloves and liners each layer insulates and adds warmth.
3. Wear a hat! This is perhaps the one I am personally the worst at doing. Because lets face it - who really looks good in a hat? And there are times that even I am vain and thus won’t wear a hat. But your head is the single point on the body where heat escapes the quickest. Insulate yourself and avoid that heat loss.
A typical outfit for me on a photography outing includes Marino wool long underwear (both top and bottom), fleece pants, snow pants, a fleece jacket and a wind shell. In cases where it’s colder I will always bring my balaclava and liner for my gloves. And if you’re anything like me your feet get cold easily. I swear by REI’s Smart Wool socks with liners and polar fleece socks over that.
So while these basics may seem like common sense they are a great way to get out and enjoy the state in any season. Avoid the cold fusion by preparing yourself. After all, a little heat goes a long way in living life. Don’t let it pass you by.
Perhaps one of the biggest questions I receive about my adventures in Alaska and living here is what don’t I like about it. I mean there are so many things to like and enjoy but there are also its down sides. Its distance from the “Lower 48″ often leads to higher transportation costs.
A prime example would be it’s at least $300.00 on a good day just to get out of state via the airlines. Usually prices are quite a bit higher and sometimes can creep into thousands of dollars depending on your destination. Of course there is always the darkness issue which can be sometimes devastating to those of us with Seasonal Affective Disorder. We constantly turn our eyes to the sky in hopes for the light to return. Which I must admit I’m thrilled that we will be gaining light by the end of this weekend. But I must say - my biggest complaint about living here are the shipping and freight costs associated with getting goods here. We rely heavily on outside distributors to get something as simple as a gallon of milk. Our local dairy Matanuska Maid just folded and 99% of our milk is therefore supplied by out of state dairies. Fresh fruits and vegetables can be as foreign as traveling to a third world country.
However nothing draws my ire more than those companies that take complete advantage of the remoteness and as a result jack up their shipping costs to exorbient amounts. Simply because they can. I have sometimes seen these quoted prices doubled or even tripled. Just as I have received comments such as “I’m sorry we don’t ship overseas”. Now I understand my geography may be rusty now and then given it’s been over a decade since I was in school. But last I looked Alaska was a part of the United States. We certainly are not a foreign country. Nor are we an island located down off the coast of Mexico like so many maps would have you believe. That’s right folks, the good old US Postal Service does ship here. And there rates are no more expensive than shipping that same weighted box to another state.
A perfect example would be that I am an eBay user. Some of my camera equipment is obviously ordered from out of state. This morning some yahoo decided to attempt to charge me 3x the cost on a wireless remote for my camera. A remote which weighs less than one pound and can be put into a padded envelope and sent priority mail for $4.60 flat rate. I know this because I ship things frequently.
Obviously this was after I had to explain that yes, the mail system does come to Alaska. No mail is not delivered by dog sled. Obviously the (excessive) shipping faerie strikes again.
Needless to say I canceled that order. Now I must run as I burned a hole in the top of my igloo after cooking breakfast.
Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge
Anchorage, Alaska
A beautiful December sunset along the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge. As my breath vapored as it hit the air and I listened to the snow crunch beneath my feet and the ice crack and moan. I stopped and though how truly lucky I am to live only 5 minutes away from here.
The reality is I should never knowingly said that these are the quiet times for me. For no sooner do I say them that I find myself eating those words. Life has taken on a frinetic pace the last week alone and the I must admit I’m loving it. What, new man in my life? New job? New house? New car? You may be asking. Neither my friends. In fact if you guessed it was the first one I would have to sit you down and kindly laugh in your face.
But the reality is my photography sales have really taken off. No sooner had I posted about the order of calendars being available when I found myself selling out of that shipment and having to place a second bulk order. Which should be here by mid-week.
Along with that comes the next step of building a business with offering Alaska note cards. Both Alaska landscapes and wildlife. I’m also taking it a step further and going to begin offering prints (both framed and unframed) through an online store. Of course that means my time has been limited during the evenings. In fact most of my time has been spent running to the post office and shipping everything out. The next step is building a business website and having it up and running by next week.
Times are a changing. Who would have thought - this Alaskan Explorer has always used photography as my excuse to travel. Little did I know I could also get paid for it.
Eagle River VFW
Eagle River, Alaska
Befitting of its name, Eagle River is home to literally hundreds of American Bald Eagles during the winter months. Residing close to the Eagle River Fire Department is home to a dedicated naturalist by the name of Betty. Betty spends hundreds of hours each winter collecting and sorting through premium fish and then feeding the eagles every few weeks.
During feeding time it offers a mecca of opportunities for wildlife photography as the eagles swoop down for the food before returning to their perch. The Eagle River VFW is located off of Eagle River Road off the Glenn Highway.
When one thinks of tourist destinations within this great state rarely do they think of long abandoned towns that linger down long and lonely stretches of road. But for some of the most interesting history within the Southcentral area I always recommend a visit down Knik Goose Bay Road to visit the “town” of Knik and the Iditarod museum.
Birthed from the Tanaina Indian village name meaning “fire”, Knik was once a landing and supply point for mines in the Talkeetna mountains. Founded at the turn of the century Knik later jumped into peril when the creation of the Alaska Railroad bypassed this once bustling town. Deserted in 1919 the town remains much as it has today. A few small buildings with a burial ground but encamped in some of the best dog mushing trails in the area. In fact Knik serves as a check point for the historic Iditarod dog sledding race - the grueling 1049 mile race from its ceremonial start in Anchorage to its end in the gold rush town of Nome.
Bright and early on a cold Sunday morning I awoke to temperatures hovering around 3 degrees and I decided to head down to the remnants of Knik in an effort to obtain an image I have had framed in my mind now for awhile. Situated on the banks of the Knik Arm lies the Knik River.
Earlier in my explorations I had come across an abandoned fishing boat that sat perked out on the mud flats. I was immediately enchanted by the image before me and thus the picture began to build in my mind. Which would incorporate the abandoned boat on a cold winter morning with the sun rising over the nearby mountain ranges.
Of course the sunrise didn’t quite bloom as strongly as I would have liked. And with a wind coming out of the North at 30 miles per hour taking the wind chills far below zero it wasn’t the ideal settings weather wise for a photograph shoot.
But alas it was nice to get out of town once more and spend not just a few hours taking pictures, but rather an entire day out in the “field”.
Indeed never time wasted. In fact if anything it was a step back and reminder of the enriched history that Alaska offers.
Sunset over the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge
Southcentral Alaska
With an oasis of tidal flats and alder bog forests the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge offers some of the greatest birding opportunities in the Anchorage bowl. Moose, coyotes, beaver and muskrats often are found in the refuge and offer a plethora of viewing options and experiences.
As I stepped among the crisp piles of snow that had adorned themselves along the fence posts and my senses were filled with the fragranced air of chimney smoke, I began to think. A new day had dawned and led us into the encroachment of nearing the end of yet another year.
We focus and currently live in a month that brings many memories and serves as a gentle reminder that the frenzied holiday rush is here. Days to be filled with the company of friends and family. Like those of sitting in front of your dining room table as you lean back and pat your overstuffed belly, knowing that yet again you have indulged in too much. The light of the harvest colors have given way to the beckoning reds and greens of December. A time for change, a time for joy; and for some, even a time of depression. For the holidays speak of memories like no other.
It is no surprise to me that with the approaching New Year that I find myself lost in thought. But unlike most people that may be asking themselves, “What has changed for me?”, “How have I changed?” or even “What could I make better?” instead I find myself looking for ways and thoughts on what could I have done differently to enjoy my time in this state. Looking for and planning new ways to help me experience what being an Alaskan is truly about.
It is no surprise that aligned with these thoughts are the sparks of the wanderlust spirit that is and has always resided within me. I think instead of the coming summer and places to see. The list is long and no doubt there will be more mileage added to my car.
Those thoughts include such journeys as camping along the Hull Road to experience the visage of the Brooks Range. Or flying in to a base camp at Skolai Pass in Wrangell-St. Elias and doing some backpacking and exploring. Or even experiencing the enriched history of the gold rush with a trip to the Top of the World Highway and into the Yukon. Of course I shall be returning to Katmai and Denali National Park. Just as I will be entering the McNeil River lottery and of course the Denali Road Lottery in hopes of winning. Then there is the personal project that has birthed itself in my mind that focuses on the history and lore of the Iditarod Trail. These are all the experiences and wonders that Alaska offers in summer or even fall. But I’m served a reminder there is still much to experience in winter’s chill.
As I am in no rush, I simply wait. For the horizons to be filled with their promise of aurora and their lighted beams flirting across the sky with the promise of harmony, perseverance and balance. The promise of what lies ahead. Just within my grasp. Just upon the distant outreach of my own inner horizon.