Like most places around the country the ebony of night brings with it a step into another world. A time when most people truly come alive and begin their ventures outdoors - whether it be celebrating the night life of the city or even perhaps attending a theatre performance. There is an electricity that sparks us when we journey into that witching hour.

Those hours around dusk are one of my favorites as well but of course for different reasons. Because those moments bring with it an increase in wildlife activity. It is no secret that moose are more active around dusk and dawn as are many other Alaska mammals. With the darkness those animals you don’t normally see become active as well. The red fox emerge from their den for hunting or porcupine begin to wander the local woods.

As the hours flowed into dusk last night I found myself back up at the Glenn Alps overlook in an attempt to capture a view of the city lights. Of course I wasn’t able to capture the image i wanted because my wide angle lens chose that night to be tempermental. So after a few hours I decided to call it a day and head home.

No sooner had I pulled into the back parking lot of where I live and took some things over to the garbage can when I began to hear some chirps emitted into the air. Chirps that brought back memories of my time at McNeil River. You see I was all too familiar with the animal they were coming from. So I took a few steps forward and looked into the darkness. I found some amber colored eyes staring back at me.

It appears we have a red fox family living in the woods bordering the Campbell Creek where I live. As I allowed my eyes to become used to the darkness I watched her bound off through the trees as if in search for prey.

To me it was a good omen and a reminder of on of my favorite times this year. I hope she will come visiting again.

There are those moments while traveling that you encounter such a breathtaking location that its memories burns deep within your mind. There has been one particular place that has held special meaning to me over the last few years and that is a place known as Liberty Falls on the road to Kennecott/McCarthy near Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. I first came across this gem while traveling in 2006. At the time I was in a water flow frenzy when it came to photography and someone told me about this beautiful waterfall off the road to Chitina.

On a whim I decided to stop by there to take a look. Situated on the shores was a quaint little campground known as Liberty Falls State Park. I was devastated to hear of a flood that hit the area and virtually destroyed it later that fall and when I was again in the area during my 2007 journey there I knew it would be awhile before it opened. But I never gave up hope. After all it is a beautiful setting and offered not only a calm and serene place to rest your head at the end of a long day but also offered some wonderful hiking trails in the surrounding area.

Last night while I was planning my fall trip in which my friend C will accompany me I began to piece together an itinerary. I thought it would be great to add a journey to Kennecott/McCarthy to the agenda for some fall foliage photography before heading north to the Top of the World Highway. However as I began to plan the agenda was coming to 7 days over the Labor Day holiday. Which would require us to take one day off more than planned. Now I don’t think this is a problem to me because I have a solid banking of vacation time saved. But it might be an issue for C who is relatively new to her job. So it came to me today. Why not leave an evening after work instead of the following morning and we could camp at Liberty Falls?

So I went to the state website to see if it was open. Only to encounter the dire words “Closed for summer.” In further research I found out that not only was it closed temporarily but is closed permanently. Apparently during a land survey it was determined that the area fell on Ahtna native land an they have closed it for good. And those hiking trails I mentioned? Are now on private property and can’t be used without a use permit.

This is one Alaska treasure that I’m just saddened to lose. I shall remember my time there last summer while hiking and the beautiful views we encountered. I shall relish that trip just a bit more in knowing that they can’t quite be encountered as easily again.

With most people around the country raising their eyebrows in a bit of alarm at the constantly increasing gas and fuel prices, I found myself swept up in a bit of this concern as well when it came to summer travel. With one of my vacations to Southeast Alaska already axed by the exorbient transportation costs, I found myself with a week off and nothing planned. And with being budget conscious on the brain, I found myself trying something a bit different this Memorial Day weekend and that was playing tourist by riding the train down to the coastal community of Seward for some time out on Resurrection Bay. It has been years since I have been on the train and with it being speculated that the trip between Anchorage and Seward is in fact one of the most beautiful, I decided “Why not?” and found myself reserving a spot.

Of course as I left Anchorage bright and early Friday morning the weather wasn’t looking to promising. I had earlier watched a beautiful sunset with the hiccups of pinks and purples enveloping the skies a little after 4:15 that morning. But by the time I hit the train station at a little after 5:45 that morning the clouds had rolled in and the rain and wind began in earnest. By the time I reached Seward a little after 11:30 in the morning with the gale force winds there was horizontal rain “welcoming” all of us to Seward. Not exactly a welcome promise given I had to walk a little more than a mile and a half to my hotel carrying two cumbersome bags. And what was worse - I had 4 hours to “waste” out in the elements before I was able to check in to my hotel. With that in mind I found myself stowing my bags on my friend Jennifer’s boat and then walked over to Ray’s restaurant for a leisurely lunch of halibut and a salad. You ever notice when you’re trying to spread time out you actually seem to get these tasks done more quickly? I set a record I think for being in and out of Ray’s in under an hour. In the end I found myself taking refuge on the M/V Arctic Enchantress for the next few hours while I cozied up and read my book. Thank god for friends. Finally the afternoon passed to where I could check in and wait for another friend to arrive in town that evening.

Our plans were really quite simple. The next morning we were to head out Mariah Tour’s “Captains Choice Tour” for a day of wildlife watching and of course some photography. But of course as was already the established habit, the following morning we were met with very low cloud cover that promised more “liquid sunshine” from the elements. I packed extra carefully that morning by bringing gloves, rain pants and my Gore-Tex shell. I was so glad I did. Now how the Captains Choice Tour differs from the other tours that occur in Kenai Fjords National Park is that these tours are geared towards photographers and birders. Limited to 22 people the boat is smaller which will allow one to get closer to the wildlife. Our vessel that morning was to be the M/V Misty which is part of the Kenai Fjords fleet. After meeting the captain, crew and fellow travelers, we set out for our days adventure with a light rain falling which would continue throughout the remainder of the day.

Now I have always heard the best time to encounter marine wildlife was when it was raining out. Little did I know at the time how true this was. We started out by seeing the sea otters right beyond the sea wall in the bay which is quite the norm for Resurrection Bay. But as the hours progressed so too did the encounters with the wildlife including a very large number of Orca whales that came right up to the boat. Now if I would have been on the ball and quicker with the camera it is likely I would have been able to capture a shot of an orca breaching completely out of the water. As it was I think I was still standing with my mouth agape at having seen one surface directly off the port side of the boat. Now I have seen Orca in my years of living here but they have never been that close. And the wildlife sightings continued as the minutes ticked into hours — the remainder of the afternoon brought us encounters with stellar sea lions, puffins, feeding humpback whales, dall porpoise. Quite simply the list is endless. Despite the long day and feeling quite frigid by its end I was definitely sad to see it end. There is no doubt at this point that the only boats I will sail with when it comes to Resurrection Bay wildlife tours is Mariah Tours. They come highly recommended.

Sunday’s adventure was a return to something I haven’t participated in in many years — that of sea kayaking. I caught my morning transport with the M/V Chugach and was dropped off bright and early for a rendezvous with the Sunny Cove gang and our agenda for the day was to paddle over to Sunny Cove and Starfish Rock before eventually returning to Fox Island for a salmon bake before I would catch the M/V Greatland back to Seward and then eventually on to catch the train where I would return home to Anchorage and back into my own little world. Now even though it has been years since I have been sea kayaking it was much like riding a bike. The moment I geared up and my kayaking partner and I sliced through the water it was a true reminder of how much I had missed it over the years. Now Resurrection Bay is notorious for having storm systems swing through the bay as quickly as a by your leave.

And that day was no different. The storm system that had swept through the bay less than 24 hours before had dissipated and now we were enjoy an afternoon of paddling under sunny skies. I had warned my kayaking partner early on that it had been years since I paddled. Of course I got the typical “don’t worry about it - I’ll handle the paddling and rudder.” I have always been something of a power paddler and I have a very quick front stroke. One that seemed to take even my kayaking partner by surprise. So much so that less than an hour later the guide was joking with him about taking the “easy way out” and letting me do all the work. Obviously I’m paying for it today with sore musles.

In all serious though Sunny Cove Kayaking is yet another one of those great Alaska oufits that is recommended. Ilya and Gunner who were our guides for the day were completely professional and made those that had never even kayaked feel completely safe on the water.  Plus both had a very good sense of humor.  I will be going back for one of their longer guided tours later in the summer. In the meantime the gear head inside of me is now plotting the purchase of a tandem necky. Double rather than single because I am one that thinks the doubles are more fun.

In the end it was a great weekend and a wonderful start to my week off. And a wonderful step in to the summer ahead.

With Alaska currently in the grip of spring and leaves beginning to bud on the trees it serves as a perfect reminder that while many of us are awakening from the winter slumber and turning our eyes towards summer, so too is local area wildlife. Soon the moose and caribou will be dropping their spring calves and with it the hungry bears emerge from their den.  And with May 11th being the beginning of bear awareness week comes the consummate question - what should you do if you encounter a bear in the wilds?

First and foremost, learn to recognize what type of bear you are encountering. Bears can come in a variety of colors and when you are encountering a “brown bear” it in fact may not be.  Brown Bears or Grizzlies as they are known in the interior portions of the state tend to vary from blonde to black in color. In profile however the brown bear has a distinctive shoulder hump while black bears do not. Their claws can be between 2 to 4 inches long and are often clearly visible in their tracks. Black bears tend to be slightly smaller than brown bears and have a more “roman” profile. However when you encounter one in the woods you may not reasonably find yourself thinking, “Okay, does this bear have a roman profile?” Quite simply look for the distinctive shoulder hump.

When learning to differentiate these types of bears you quickly learn that when encountering a bear you should react differently. The similarities in your actions of course would be to stand your ground and begin to talk softly to the bear. This lets them know that “Hey, I’m human!”. Now is not the time to turn around and begin yelling “Mommy!” and running for your life. In my own experience I have found that you appear less non-confrontational when you slowly turn your head and look at the bear out of the corner of your eyes as this is indicative of a non-aggressive mode of appearance. Interestingly enough this was a reaction that was mentioned quite frequently in “Lonesome for Bears” by Linda Jo Hunter.

When it comes to potential encounters you have to realize that if you are out in the great outdoors you will eventually run into a bear. If the bear has detected your presence again talk to them to allow the bear to identify you. And to also notify them that you are not a threat. Wave your arms to help identify you further. Most importantly do not run. Assess the situation. Is this a brown bear or a black bear?

Bears may try and bluff charge you depending on how they are feeling in this situation. Most of the times they simply want to get away as much as you do. Bears don’t set out each morning thinking, “hmm, lets have a human for lunch today”. Most are simply caught unaware during an encounter and are looking for their way out.

If you run into a brown bear and he makes contact, “play dead” is something you will often hear. This tends to further the example in letting them know you are not a threat. Bring your legs to your chest and bury your head into your legs. Cover your neck with your hands. Or you may simply chose to lay on your stomach if you are wearing a backpack but again cover your neck with your hands. The backpack affords you some protection. Often the bear will become bored and wander off. This is the time to retain your patience and determine if they are still around. If they have vacated the area make your way towards assistance.

When it comes to encounters with black bears your actions should they make contact should be the exact opposite. Yell, scream and fight back. One of the black bears most sensitive places is their nose. Try and punch it if you are able to. Above all your actions during these attacks determine potential injury. Learning to recognize bear behavior should be your first and ultimate priority, especially when traveling through bear country.

Another constant question I get is what equipment do I carry when out hiking? Do I carry a gun? It actually might surprise people to hear that I don’t. Despite the fact that I am quite familiar with firearms and know how to use them well. At times while I do carry bear spray my choice of protection is actually quite different. On my belt at all times are 2 simple things:

[1] A plastic whistle
[2] A flare gun

Why a whistle? If you are injured and there are people in the area, a call of three short blasts from a whistle often indicates help is needed. And the reality is a flare gun is used for a dual purpose when needed. You can not only use it for its obvious intention, but if you are bluff charged by a bear one remedy is to point the flare gun and shoot it at the feet of the charging bear or at the ground between you. While it obviously may not save you if there is an attack, it does have the potential to give an animal pause and cause confusion - thus breaking the charge. And the reality is that most charges are just that - bluffs. You have a bear backed into a corner and they feel a charge is their only way out.

Some of my own tips I have learned over the years while out hiking.

So while I may not be the expert when it comes to animal behavior or encounters, I do know from having lived in Alaska for over 30 years I have learned to educate myself. It’s learning to recognize and know what to do in a situation that may ultimately save your life. By being aware - bear aware.

Resources
Bear Attacks, Their Causes and Avoidance, by Stephen Herrero, Winchester Press.
Safety in Grizzly and Black Bear Country; NWT Renewable Resources.

Black Bear
Southcentral Alaska

It was such a beautiful day outside I decided to go hiking up at Potter Creek by myself. But shortly after I left the house I realized I didn’t have my bear spray, whistle or flare gun with me. Things I normally carry while hiking in bear country. I didn’t go back as I figured I wouldn’t run into a bear so early in the season. Would I? The reality is I should know better..

There’s a reason my friends jokingly call me “The Bear Whisperer”. Given I have a tendency to find them wherever I go.

The sense of anticipation begins to build, their eyes turn quickly to the calendar. Counting each day until that one day arrives. Where as they peel out of bad the moment the clock strikes morning. Their heart building crescendo to a tempo much akin to the mambo or salsa. Thump thump, thump thump goes the heart. The eyes begin to shine in brightness and wonder. Waiting so eagerly until just that right time.

To most this would be that morning in December when it comes the time for children to open their Christmas presents. However for me that sense of excitement is the spring road opening of Denali National Park. A true indication that spring has arrived. The time when one can explore in their own vehicle to their hearts content for those secret few weeks in April and May before the tourists arrive. A time to experience the animals on an up close and personal basis. Each day like that prize in the Cracker Jack box. Each gift will be different.

However for spring of 2008 the road opening brought to many its frustrations and a real reminder that Mother Nature is at no one’s beck and call. Her retort to being guessed was a series of storms that riddled the area dumping many feet of snow. And frustration to the road crews who had no sooner plowed and cleared the road when another storm swept in bringing more work and hard ships. Some wondered if the road would ever open. After all, there were some rumors that the opening of the park to the shuttle busses would even be pushed back if the repeated patterns persisted. But then came that day — Saturday May 3rd, 2008 when the road did indeed open to Tek at Mile 30.

Within 24 hours I was on the road having waited days if not weeks for this day. Luckily Mother Nature was kind that day and I departed Anchorage a little after 6:00 a.m. for a full day’s drive and wonder. Again much like my Seward trip I found myself making wonderful time. The early morning hours are definitely the way to travel, as I encountered very few people and even fewer bottle necks. Arriving at Denali Park a little after 9:30 in the morning I began the climb to Savage River. My car inching along as my eyes swept left and right looking for the first signs of wildlife. I had heard reports of wolves at Mile 9 including fox and lynx making their rare appearance on the roads. While I did not encounter a wolf until shortly before Tek and the turn around, I began to have luck with my wildlife viewing. After all wasn’t it a sign of things to come when I ran into a herd of caribou in Broad Pass outside of Cantwell? It was karma and after a winter full of less than superior trips, this was to be my day.

The sightings began to build - ptarmigan, sheep, moose, more ptarmigan and even snowshoe hare. And with it came the raging torrents of spring snow melt vaulting down both sides of the road. I do confess it is rather an eerie feeling to be driving on a road and have water levels on both sides of you that are almost as high as the road itself. After I left Savage River and begin to climb into the hills I encountered my first few caribou foraging off in the fields. I pulled off to the side of the road and just watched them for awhile. For those driving behind me, they quickly learned that when I stopped, they stopped as I had obviously spotted something yet again.

Four hours later I made my way to Tek turn around and began the journey out of the park. Denali was not out that day as she decided to hide herself behind a whisper of clouds shortly after I arrived. But the wildlife? Was out in its glory. Shortly after leaving Tek I stopped to watch another herd of caribou. One female kept migrating closer and closer to my car. Within 20 feet of it I watched her head whip up and suddenly they went bounding off as quick as a flash. I turned and out of the corner of my eye saw what had disturbed them - a gray wolf had thrown a volley and was giving chase. I smiled knowing how truly lucky I was. A wolf is a rare sighting even in these untamed lands of Alaska.

As I made my way out of the park and back towards Anchorage I had no sooner hit Broad Pass when my timing was curtailed again for a 20 minute delay. I didn’t mind. Caribou were on the road again and weren’t moving.

Ah Denali - you put on your show. I shall indeed be back just one more time before the summer season starts.

In between the wars being waged between winter and spring here in the North — or as I prefer to think of it, the hormonal turbulence of that mighty wench known as Mother Nature - she decided to spare us from her evil influences as of late and decided to hand us a glorious spring weekend. Little did I know that less than 2 weeks later she would laugh mightily again at our expense and hand us a late winter storm bearing 28 inches of new powder.

But during that reprieve I decided to take the weekend and journey south to the shores of Resurrection Bay and engage in a gray whale watch tour with one of the local tour companies. Saturday morning had no sooner broke when I awoke and was met with perfect blue skies with narily a cloud in them. I found myself making good time and arrived in Seward in just under two hours. Plenty of time to stop at the store and stock up on a few last minute drinks and snacks to add to my day pack. That particular day I had arranged to meet a few friends at the entrance to Kenai Fjords Tours and had also posted it as an event with the local photography Meetup group. Quite simply it turned into a game of chance and I had no idea how many people would show up so found myself arriving quite early at the office. I decided to step outside and enjoyed the sea breeze whispering across my face as I watched a sea lion play on the rocks of the harbor below. In the end it was only those friends I had expected that showed up.

Our ride that particular morning was to be on the catamaran known as the M/V Aialik Voyager — one of Kenai Fjords Tours newest vessels. As we walked down to the docks and waited with the crowds to board and then eventually depart, I found myself catching up with my friend D and his girlfriend J. It had been awhile since I last saw him and it was nice to chat and “geek talk” about cameras and photography. I had pulled out my new 100-400 mm lens by then and I had to make sure that I had it well covered less I get some of D’s drool on it. A little after 15 minutes of waiting in line we boarded the Voyager for our 4 hour grey whale watch tour.

Gray whales are generally found in the North Pacific but venture to Alaska each spring from their winter migration grounds in California. They journey thousands of miles to the Bering and Chukchi sea each spring with their newly born calves in tow. It is on this journey that they tend to sometimes venture into the mouth of Resurrection Bay in South-central Alaska. They arrive in our waters typically during the months of April and May. And if luck is on your side you may partake in viewing these giants. Unlike other whales that visit these waters, gray whales do not have fins. Rather they have a low hump followed by a series of 9 to 12 knobs on the dorsal ridge of their tale stock.

Though only a 4 hour tour on this particular Saturday we were graced with a medley of marine wildlife — including an aging sea otter as soon as we entered the bay. We were also lucky to encounter numerous humpback whales, dall porpoise, stellar sea lions, harbor seals and thousands upon thousands of migrating sea birds. The vast array of sea birds was awe inspiring and we spent a great amount of time in the Chiswell Island refuge just watching and listening. It was during that time that we spotted our first pod of grey whales. That coupled with a sea as calm as glass and warm temperatures led to a very enriched afternoon.

It seemed no sooner had we just departed when we found ourselves back at the dock. But I did consider myself lucky. Anytime I see wildlife is a day I consider myself that much more enriched in living in this great state. While D and J decided to go and visit our friends that have their sailboat docked there I went to check in to my hotel and freshen up before we would all meet for a wonderful dinner at Ray’s Restaurant. This was my first time staying at this particular hotel and I definitely lucked out. After dinner I spent the evening listening to the water lap gently at the shoreline for my hotel room was right on the inner harbor.

All in all it was a wonderful weekend away. Good food. Good friends. And always amazing views.

It’s a meal that Alaska serves best.

Once again Mother Nature has had her laugh at my expense. This time it included me driving all the way up to Denali Park (250 miles each way) only to find the park closed because of recent snowstorms. But alas it was a beautiful day, albeit a long drive to find myself turned back. And of course in that amount of time the National Park Service finally decided to update the road status. Apparently if it hadn’t been for the storms they would have opened the road to Tek this weekend. It appears that should hopefully happen sometime next week.

Ever since returning home I have found my thoughts wandering on the upcoming summer. And while I have my trips to Katmai, Southeast Alaska, Anan Creek and McNeil River planned there are some that I want to fit in, including:

Dalton Highway to Antigun Pass
McCarthy/Kennecott
Taylor Highway to Eagle

Given these areas are so remote they are best not done alone. I definitely need to find myself an adventurous camping partner.  That and I need to get to bed given I have a 3:30 a.m. wakeup call for a day trip to Homer for one last shot at eagle photography.

There are those times when we all dream of vacations and have things to look forward to. But if there is ever a time where I have a season to remember it is this summer.

Not only will I be doing extensive photography trips in Southeast Alaska as well as a trip to Kodiak. In addition to my “regular” trips to Denali National Park and Katmai. I had thought I really lucked out when I was able to get my permit to Anan Wildlife Sanctuary.

Then came the creme de la creme today. And that is prime viewing territory in Katmai National Park in August.

I’m going to McNeil River as I won the luck of the draw with the permit lottery.

Considered “the Last Great Race” and a true testament to the will of its mushers, the Iditarod ceremonial start in Anchorage signifies to most the beginning of the end to winter and the journey into spring. And under partly sunny skies and considerably warmer temperatures than 2007 when Anchorage was plagued with 15 below zero for its start, the 2008 Iditarod ceremonial start in Anchorage on Saturday began with a bang.

A race of over 1,150 miles from its start in Anchorage to Front Street in Nome, the Iditarod has won worldwide acclaim and interest among its fans. The ceremonial start winds 22 miles from Downtown Anchorage through the city to Eagle River, Alaska. However the true test doesn’t begin until the following day when the restart is held on the frozen shores of Willow Lake. It is a race in which both men and women compete. Each with their own racing tactic. Each with their own strategy. And indeed each fan has their favorite musher and in some cases favorite dogs.

Surrounded by hundreds of fans I found myself swept up in the excitement of the ceremonial start bright and early. Rather than fight the crowds I journeyed over to one of my favorite viewing spots in midtown Anchorage - i.e. the trail behind the Alaska Native Medical Center. A place which offers up close and personal views both with the mushers and the dogs. Most mushers by that time are over the excitement and stress of the crowded start in downtown Anchorage and will allow themselves to begin to relax and in some cases even have fun with the crowds.

Or completely ignore them as the case may be. Such in case would be four time Iditarod champion Jeff King from Denali Park who mushed by playing with his iPod while completely oblivious to the crowds. No doubt he will be hearing many songs over the hundreds of miles that lay ahead of him. His Iditaride Rider on the other hand had a huge grin on their face.

The Iditarider program was launched in the late 1990s as a means of auctioning off seats in front of mushers sleds for the start of the race. The extra weight allows the mushers to slow their dogs down and not tire them out before the races really begins. Plus the Iditarider program has raised nearly $56,000 for the Iditarod by bidders around the world. It is quite simply an experience unlike any other.

Throughout the morning I continued to watch and photograph the mushers coming through. And watched the broad smiles of 2007 champion and cancer survivor Lance Mackey, and other mushers like fan favorite DeeDee Jonrowe, Zack Steer, and Mitch Seavy. 

Then one of my own personal favorites (Martin Buser) came through. Martin just has the type of personality that shines in photographs and indeed that day he had a broad smile on his face.  In some ways a perma-grin has come to be expected from Martin. Teller musher and mayor Joe Garnie was talking to the crowds and thanking everyone for coming while his handler settled a tangle amongst the dogs. The next ten days shall indeed prove challenging for each of the mushers. Some will finish while obviously others will not. But there is one thing that is for certain.